The Glasbern farm is now home to a new family. The intention, said owner Al Granger, was to bring in a couple of sows and begin the process of breeding “Large Blacks” as the heritage breed of pigs is aptly called. But, it turns out, there was more to their considerable girth than the tender fat that these pigs are known for. Just days before the date they were due at the Glasbern, another due date occurred, and numerous little Large Black piglets arrived into the world. And so Al found himself transporting a large family of Large Blacks. If you wonder how it might feel to be bumped by hundreds of pounds of pig flesh, just ask Al. “One of the mothers bumped me off my feet!” he grumbled. A word to the wise: Be very sweet to new mothers, and I don’t mean just mother pigs.

Large Blacks were on the way to extinction fifty years ago. Why? Because their outdoor foraging habits were not a good fit with the new-fashioned ways of raising pork, intensively and indoors. The breed is entirely dependent on dedicated farmers who have an interest in tending and preserving hogs that can live off the land, such as the Berkshires and the Large Blacks that graze at the Glasbern. The massive animals are known for their exceptionally docile and friendly dispositions—as long as you don’t threaten their young ’uns that is—and are natural grazers. Lop ears hang over their eyes, which would seem to be a sight handicap, except that they are always looking down. Simply put, Large Blacks live to eat, and those ears actually shield their eyes as they graze their way around a field. And, unlike many hog breeds, the Large Blacks are protected from sunburn by their black coats, which allows them to live comfortably outdoors.

Another thing the breed is known for is exceptionally tender meat–it is considered a “bacon” type, rather than the more common corn-fed “lard” type. Chef Browning’s interest and skill in curing and smoking bacon will ensure that the Large Blacks have an extended and tasty afterlife. Sustaining valuable heritage hogs by breeding, delving into traditional methods of curing and charcuterie, and preserving the meats themselves without commercial nitrites by skillfully combining natural flavorings … all this comes together at the Glasbern farm.

So if you happen to catch a fleeting glimpse of Al as he herds livestock, inspects grasses, or does another of the hundreds of tasks that keep the farm running, you might thank him for taking that bump on the rump. The commitment of farmers to heritage breeds and good land stewardship benefits every one of us.